Sergey Oboguev (oboguev) wrote,
Sergey Oboguev

белое бургундское


2000 Мeursault Clos de la Barre, Comte Lafon
1999 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet, Louis Jadot

Примечание: питы в римской Мирабели.
Восхитительные мерсо и батард.

Сейчас будем пробовать соседние vintages.

2012 Beaune Clos Saint-Landry (Monopole) Premier Cru, Bouchard Pere & Fils

Вино с очень приятным и лёгким букетом, как бы "белый чай" вина.
Букет буквально плавает в воздухе.
За свои $50 -- очень, очень.

2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Folatieres"

Но $250.

2012 Domaine Blain-Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru "Caillerets"
2012 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Chardonnay

Два вина практически идентичны, за исключением того, что первое по $85, а второе по $17.
Идеальное вино с деликатным букетом для пищи со слабовыраженным вкусом, как то печёной белой рыбы.

2013 Domaine Latour-Giraud "Genevrieres" Meursault 1er Cru

It is $100 a bottle, so no surprise about it being good.
In terms if taste, I can confirm that everything is as described here:

However, not any wine sold for $100 is by any means really a $100 wine, and this one is.
If you feel any time like having a good Meursault without breaking the bank too much, this may be the one to try.

2013 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Perrieres Premier Cru

Мерсо лучше среднего, но не фонтан-фонтан.

Christophe Buisson, Saint-Romain 2012

Очень выразительная и интересная штучка.
Частью рецепторов воспринимается как белое бургундское (весьма неплохое в этом качестве), а другой частью -- как коньяк.
Последний эффект после полу-бокала ослабевает, но если сбросить palate водой, то возникает вновь.

2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet (за $125)

Пить вполне можно и довольно неплохо, но конечно совсем не то, что Folatieres, и од не вызывает.
"На четвёрку".

2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Cailleretes" Marc Colin et Fils

Пить вполне можно и довольно неплохо, но од не вызывает.
"На четвёрку".

2011 Puligny-Montrachet Bouchard Pere et Fils // Chateau de Beaune

Весьма, весьма неплохо. Очень лёгкое, почти воздушное вино, при этом игристое -- одновременно и выразительно-игристое, и легко-ненавязчивое. С учётом цены, очень удачная находка.


2011 Mersault "Les Chevalieres", Pascal Matrot

Средней руки мерсо.
Чуточку апельсиново-резковат, но пить можно.

2013 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Ну, неплох, если декантировать.
Но за $150 повторять наверное не стану.

Thierry et Pascale Matrot, 2013 Les Chalumeaux 1er Cru Puligny-Montrachet

Так себе.
Ни рыбо, ни мясо.


2013 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne

Пулиньи, к сожалению со слишком большим количеством апельсина, заглушающим половину букета.

Сhateau de la Maltroye Chassagne Montrachet 2012 1er Cru

Not exactly a budget item, around $100, but very interesting and pleasing.

Normally Chassagne's are delicate vines, with little or no forward component.
This one combines delicate refined base with a strong and interesting forward component.
It is intensely yellowish in the glass, and this foretells the taste.

Wine critics probably would say it has notes of bitter orange corks/skins, but it reminded me something else. Many years ago in a restaurant in St. Petersburg me and my classmate Masha had a very interesting wine, which was advised to us by the sommelier. It had intense flavor of dried grasses. It was almost like laying in a stack of hay. It was just fabulous. Unfortunately I did not write down what wine it was. Every time we have been in this restaurant afterwards we'd remember it, but made no attempt to locate it. Finally last year we asked the waiter, and she called the sommelier (who was at the time in Italy), but he could not remember from our description what wine it was. So this is a lost secret. Maltroye is not quite like this, but it is the only move in this direction I have seen all over these years.

P.S. Maltroye also has a non-1er Cru version of it which is cheaper. I tried it but was not impressed as much. It might have been I just was not in a mood, but I think 1er Cru version might have a better balance between the delicate and the forward components.


OK, here is the official conclusion:
I had a run-up today of a 1-er Cru de la Maltroye vs. regular de la Maltroye.

Allowing for the variation in bottles:

The regular one has, to my taste, a forward orangy component that is way out of bounds.

The 1-er Cru one has forward orangy component that is close to the limit of acceptable (making it interesting), and the regular one pushes far beyond this limit (making it crude).

Branzino in my stove is a witness.

There is however an interesting use for the regular (non-1er) bottle. I use chunks of non-sweet orange as one of the condiments for fish. Eating these chunks with non-1er de la Maltroye makes an interesting blend.

Corton Charlemange Maison Jessiaume Grand Cru 2012

$150, just opened it yesterday. Acidity so much dominates everything, that one cannot see anything at all under it (and it did not get easier after overnight in a fridge), and I doubt whether I am actually going to finish the bottle -- a complete waste.

2013 Herve Azo Vau de Vey chablis Premier Cru

Кислятина неимоверная и не уходящая даже после нескольких дней в холодильнике.
Причём кроме кислоты там больше ничего нет.
Tags: вино

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